4th October 2019


How does the wind affect the waves?

Wave height is affected by wind speed, wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction. If wind speed is slow, only small waves result, regardless of wind duration or fetch.

Also question is, what is the main difference between wind waves and swell?

Swells need a large body of water to develop and are usually, but not always, associated with the ocean. A swell is a wave, so often to prevent confusion the shorter wavelength variety is often called chop or choppy waves. These waves have periods on the order of a few seconds. Most waves are wind generated.

What is the best definition of a wave?

wave. In physics, any regularly recurring event, such as surf coming in toward a beach, that can be thought of as a disturbance moving through a medium. Waves are characterized by wavelength, frequency, and the speed at which they move.

How does wind create waves?

Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the earth also causes waves.
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