When the active material in the plates can no longer sustain a discharge current, a battery "dies". Normally a car (or starting) battery "ages" as the active positive plate material sheds (or flakes off) due to the normal expansion and contraction that occurs during the discharge and charge cycles.
Charging a battery forces ions from the cathode to the anode; using the battery reverses the flow. Over time, this process wears out the cathode, which results in reduced capacity. A high-end lithium-polymer battery can lose about 20 percent of its capacity after 1000 charge cycles.
Defective alternator diode. A car alternator recharges the battery and powers certain electrical systems. If your alternator has a bad diode, your battery can drain. The bad diode can cause the circuit to charge even when the engine is shut off, and you end up in the morning with a car that won't start.
If the battery is disposable, it will produce electricity until it runs out of reactants (same chemical potential on both electrodes). These batteries only work in one direction, transforming chemical energy to electrical energy. But in other types of batteries, the reaction can be reversed.
Alkaline batteries are prone to leaking potassium hydroxide, a caustic agent that can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The reason for leaks is that as batteries discharge — either through usage or gradual self-discharge — the chemistry of the cells changes and some hydrogen gas is generated.
The longer the battery stays undercharged, the greater the damage. Corrosion of the conductive posts increases electrical resistance when transferring a charge to your vehicle. Overcharging your battery is dangerous and can potentially cause other car problems. Battery overcharging releases Hydrogen gas.
The series of chemical reactions that occurs in the electrodes are collectively known as oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions. In a battery, the cathode is known as the oxidizing agent because it accepts electrons from the anode. The anode is known as the reducing agent, because it loses electrons.
A: Cold weather is often fingered as the culprit when car batteries die, but actually warm temperatures do the most damage to them. But car batteries usually go dead in cold weather mostly because damage done during the summer doesn't show up until the battery is more taxed.
Your car battery provides the zap of electricity needed to put electrical components to work. It also converts chemical energy into the electrical energy that powers your car and delivers voltage to its starter. And it stabilizes the voltage (a.k.a. energy supply) that keeps your engine running.
Idling a car for 5-10 minutes will not recharge a battery. It MIGHT replace a bit of the charge lost to starting it in the first place, but even that is iffy. The alternator in your car will need to hit, roughly, 2000 engine rpm to push a charge back to the battery.
Corrosion on the terminals is due to hydrogen gas being released from the acid in the battery. It mixes with other things in the atmosphere under the hood and produces the corrosion you see on the terminals. Generally, if the corrosion is occurring on the negative terminal, your system is probably undercharging.
If enough corrosion has built up on the terminals, less current will travel through the terminals. You'll notice a loss of power and may even require a jump start to get going. The most common effect of a corroded car battery is not being able to start the vehicle.
A: If you leave the charger connected continuously, even at a mere 2 amps, the battery eventually will die. Overcharging a battery causes excessive gassing — the electrolyte gets hot and both hydrogen and oxygen gas are generated. On sealed batteries, the buildup of gases could cause the battery to burst.
A trickle charger usually operates at around 2 amps and it is going to take a long time to charge up your 12 volt car battery (read our full guide here). It can take as long as 24 hours to get the battery up to an acceptable charge, depending on how depleted your battery is when you start charging.
Determining Charge Time. The more discharged that your battery is, the longer it will take to recharge it. Batteries usually take several hours to recharge; if the battery is severely discharged (12.2 volts or less for an flooded battery) then it may take up to 12 hours or more to recharge.
If your car does start, let it run for a few minutes to help charge the battery further. Unhook the clamps in the reverse order of how you put them on. Be sure to drive your car for about 30 minutes before stopping again so the battery can continue to charge. Otherwise, you might need another jump start.
"Starting the engine draws 100 to 130 amps, and idling the car for 15 minutes might put back three or four amps," Brown-Harrison says. "If you're idling only for 15 to 20 minutes, the battery never truly gets recharged. So each time you start and leave it to idle, the charge will get lower and lower and lower."
Basically, at idle you can probably get 80 amps out of your alternator. So the car would not be considered a great tool to charge the battery, as it would take forever Depending on what the battery is demanding. RPM and loads are irrrelevant, as teh alternator will make do as needed as long as it is not overloaded.
Today most car batteries are sealed, and come more or less fully charged. Moreover, the charging circuits in modern cars are much better at avoiding excessive charging voltage. So unless you have an old car (at least forty years old) you have no need at all to worry about charging a new battery.
Memory effect, as it's called, affects NiMH batteries but it doesn't apply to your phone. In fact, you're phone's battery hates when you do that. Similarly, lithium-ion batteries don't need to be "calibrated" with a full charge and a full discharge when they're new.